RECIPE: Roman-style frittata features ribbons of egg in tomato sauce

Almost 20 years ago, when I was a teenage apprentice at an Italian restaurant in Boston, I learned about an unfamiliar sauce that sticks in my mind to this day. After spending one morning carefully hand-rolling thick strands of pici -- a rustic pasta from Tuscany -- I asked the chef how we would serve them. I was expecting a familiar ragu, but, with a glint in his eye, he replied, "sugo di coniglio scappato!" Literally, "escaped rabbit sauce."